Custom Threads: Buying a New Suit!

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A customer is fitted for a new suit at Fitzgerald's in Breton Village. Photo by Bryan Esler.

There comes a time in every young man’s life when he needs a nice-looking suit. Whether it’s for a school dance, a job interview, a wedding, or a funeral, such occasions will arise even for the most casual of dressers. Have no fear. Grand Rapids and its environs offer an embarrassment of riches when it comes to men’s formal attire. For an all-purpose first suit, Greg VanWormer of Fitzgerald’s men’s store recommends something in a solid color.

“Most of the things that we have hanging as far as suitings are greys, navy blue, new brighter blues, and blacks,” VanWormer said. Located in Breton Village, Fitzgerald’s has been a destination for custom-made and off-the-rack men’s clothing for more than 40 years. VanWormer has made a career in the men’s clothing business and has worked at Fitzgerald’s for the past 13 years. Suits at Fitzgerald’s range in price from $695 to roughly $2500. Most of the first suits they sell are at the lower price point but are durable well-made garments from the likes of well-established manufacturers like Hart Schaffner Marx and Samuelsohn. A handful of tailors are kept continuously busy at Fitzgerald’s making sure that the off-the-rack suits they sell fit customers properly.

“Where custom comes in handy is when you have different shapes. If you have a guy that wears a bigger coat then he does pants. Or if they are looking for something unique,” VanWormer said. He explains that one suit can provide a man with many looks if he purchases two or three ties as well as a solid white and a sold blue dress shirt. In addition, VanWormer provides customers with a complimentary pocket square with a suit purchase.

“A lot of the guys that are wearing suits now have gone to a shirt and a pocket square as opposed to a shirt and tie,” VanWormer said. The pocket square has a more casual and comfortable feel while providing the man in the suit with an opportunity to personalize his attire. The most common pocket square folds are the rectangular “presidential fold” or folds that come to one or three points.

Once you’ve purchased a suit, VanWormer recommends against a very common practice.

“A lot of guys will make a mistake by over dry cleaning their suits. A good wool garment breathes, and you don’t need to take it to the cleaners unless you really mess it up. You take that garment off after you’re done working, you hang it up, and the suit will air out itself,” he said. Twice a year is plenty of dry cleaning.

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