Soul food is family food. Ask someone for their soul-food recommendation, and they’re likely to direct you to their mother’s or grandmother’s kitchen. “When people come in here for the first time, I always say, ‘Welcome to the family,’ “said Chef Jodie Robertson, co-owner with her husband, Mitchell of Southern Smoke restaurant. ‘If I were going to define soul food, I would say it’s food that brings the family together and warms the soul.”
Jodie credits her great-grandmother for her early education in cooking soul food. Born in Alabama before migrating to Grand Rapids in the early 1930s, her great-grandmother took over cooking for her family while her parents and 13 siblings were picking cotton. “She was a wonderful cook, I was one of the kids who always stayed back in the house, helping her cook, licking the bowl when she made cake, helping cut stuff up, and asking questions. It taught me a lot, and those recipes stayed with me.”
After graduating from the Grand Rapids Downtown Market Incubator Kitchen, Josie teamed with Mitchell to launch a catering business, then their brick-and-mortar restaurant on South Division Avenue. (Southern Smoke is a literal family affair, employing children and grandchildren among its friendly kitchen and counter staff.)
Let’s eat!
So what’s on the menu, fam? Start by choosing from different meats — catfish, chicken, ribs and meatloaf balls are standards here — then pick two side dishes. “Every day, we’re going to have our Fabulous Four [sides]: dressing, macaroni and cheese, collard greens and candied yams. And every day, we switch up other sides, like different bean dishes, spaghetti or dirty rice.” Topping off the combo is a cornbread muffin or Southern Smoke’s signature fried cornbread. (Try it — it’s really special!)
On Sundays, the Robinsons pull out the stops with an extended menu that includes more than 40 different items. “We might have oxtails, stuffed turkey legs,” Mitchell said. “We might have salmon alfredo, chicken and waffles, Cajun shrimp alfredo and Turkey drumsticks, smothered Turkey drumstick stuff, Turkey drumsticks — holy smokes!” The couple is planning to add a Saturday brunch as well.
Southern Smoke has some more special menus in the works: Jodie is cooking up a vegan menu for meatless family members; an “Off the Grill” menu; and Soul Bowls, which will pack in a main and selection of sides for just $9.99. “Times are hard right now,” she said, “and even though things are going up — and we’re feeling it! — we still want to try to make our food affordable for people.”
Ain’t no mountain high enough
And check out the next moves for these soul pioneers:
- Southern Smoke Soul Rolls. Southern Smoke has partnered with SILVA restaurant to provide its branded soul-styled eggrolls, which pack collard greens, candy yams, and macaroni and cheese and come with a gravy dipping sauce.
- Southern Smoke Seasoning. Jodie and Mitchell have worked with Meijer to package Jodie’s secret seasoning blend for sale at the superstore’s outlets. “Meijer mentored and walked Jodie through the process,” Mitchell said, estimating that the seasoning packages should be on Meijer shelves by early spring.
- Southern Smoke distillery and tasting room. “We just got our license, so we’ll be a distillery with our own branded liquor,” Mitchell said. “We’re moving right along!”
As they continue to grow, the Robinsons credit their faith as well as their deep connection to the roots of soul food — and to its meaning in today’s world. “It brings up memories of ancestors and childhood,” Jodie said. “The world is so busy, busy, busy now, with so much stuff going on. But when you get that plate of soul food in front of you, you just remember grandma and grandpa and playing in the park and drinking water out the water hose — stuff you can’t do any more.”
Mitchell added, “The thing about soul food is, everybody thinks they can cook it, but everybody can’t cook it. And that’s a true statement. We know we’re doing something right because of our repeat customers — people taste Jodie’s food, and they keep coming back!”
5 more soul and soul-inspired restaurants :
- Gladys’ Grill. Owner Jeannica Oliver credits the name and spirit of her restaurant to her grandmother, Gladys Oliver. This breakfast and lunch spot offers a Grilled Soul Food Sundays menu that includes everything from braised oxtails to BBQ turkey knuckles to pork chitterlings.
- Sugah Please Breakfast Brunch Bar. This Detroit mainstay just made the journey to Grand Rapids with a brand-new location in Eastown, where it’s serving breakfast, brunch and lunch. Try the catfish and grits!
- Trust. Among his many culinary adventures, Chef Trimell Hawkins created the menu for the late, lamented 40 Acres. Now he’s back with a high-end “New American Soul” restaurant and bar in the heart of Heartside’s SoDIV district, serving seven- to 12-course tasting menus. (Check out his savory pot-liquor tea served with turkey pate and a corn crumpet!)
- The Candied Yam. With locations on 44th Street and South Division Avenue, Kent County’s soul food stalwart serves up breakfast, lunch and dinner — including some specialties like soul food wraps and sweet potato cornbread muffins.
- Rika’s Chicken. Naming the best fried chicken in town is always a bone of contention — but Rika’s has attracted a devoted following for its food and its late-night hours (open until 3am Friday and Saturday). Chef Sherika Dennard’s deep fryer turns out chicken wings, wingdings, nuggets and gizzards; catfish and perch; and sides like okra and cauliflower.
