Mexican food trends come and go, but El Globo Restaurant is Grand Rapids’ OG for birria tacos.
Think you know birria? Think again. In recent years, the word’s been popping up on Mexican restaurant menus nationwide — including those of big chains like Qdoba and On the Border.
But for authentic birria — made the way they do it in birria’s home state of Jalisco — you need to check out El Globo. After all, owners Evangelina Abundis and Oswaldo Cordova have been feeding Grand Rapids’ birria cravings since 2004.
First of all, a quick vocabulary lesson: Traditional birria is a rich, slow-cooked stew made of goat. (According to Evangelina, El Globo’s birria recipe includes guajillo chiles, clove and cumin, among other secret ingredients.) The “birria” that’s gone viral in the U.S. is quesabirria, a recent invention that started in Tijuana, then quickly crossed the border. Quesabirria is a cross between a quesadilla and a traditional birria taco: It’s taco-shaped, layered with melted cheese, fried and served with a side of broth for dipping. And instead of goat, quesabirria is often made with (gasp!) beef, or even chicken.
Not at El Globo, however, where the birria is all goat, all the time. “Yes, we serve quesabirria, but we also offer traditional birria stew, birria tacos and creative versions like birria ramen,” Evangelina said. “What sets us apart is that every variation is based on our original birria, made with respect for the traditional recipe. It’s not a trend — it’s part of who we are.”
Evangelina, a Jalisco native from the ancient municipality of Ixtlahuacán del Río, met Oswaldo in Guadalajara. When they arrived in Grand Rapids, they found limited Mexican food options, especially when it came to the flavors of Jalisco. Determined to shake up the status quo, they opened their original location at Madison and 28th Street before moving to South Division Avenue in Burton Heights.
Beyond birria
Besides birria, El Globo serves other dishes straight out of Jalisco:
- Tortas ahogadas (“drowned sandwiches”) made with traditional salty birote bread; filled with fried pork and beans; and drenched in a mild red sauce, with homemade spicy salsa on the side.
- Jalisco-style red pozole, a pork and hominy stew that’s a holiday favorite. Topped with onion, lettuce and radishes, it’s served with tostadas.
- Tacos dorados, golden fried with homemade salsa.
- Caldo de res, beef stew “cooked slowly, just like at home,” Evangelina said.
- Chilaquiles, a traditional breakfast dish made from tortilla chips simmered in salsa and served with eggs.
In January, El Globo ventured into new territory with a second location at East Beltline and 3 Mile. “When we opened the East Beltline location, we had a broader vision: to bring traditional Mexican food to a more diverse area, with more commercial activity and greater visibility,” Evangelina said.
“The response has been very positive. Many non-Latino customers have fallen in love with our dishes and have learned about our traditions.”
