Meat and vegetables, it does not get much simpler than that. And yet after more than a hundred years, steakhouses have served up a slab of meat and vegetable side dishes as the go-to meal for special occasions.
Haute cuisine comes and goes, but steakhouses are unrivaled in their culinary staying power amongst the world’s diners. Grand Rapids is no different.
“People know what they’re going to get when they come here,” said Andrew Verburg, the general manager at The Chop House, 190 Monroe Ave. NW. “It all comes down to down to consistency. When you think of a steakhouse, you know it’s a steakhouse. They know they’re going to spend a lot of money for that. They know they’re going to get really great service and a really great steak and seafood.”
As Verburg said, that means big slabs of red meat, a choice selection of seafood, and freshly prepared vegetable sides.
America’s first steakhouses emerged in New York City in the 1800s, as restaurants began to hone their craft and the Midwest’s cattle industry began to boom. Literally, according to Paul Freedman’s Ten Restaurants That Changed America, Delmonico’s was America’s “first real restaurant” when it opened in 1837, with a menu and all, serving, you guessed it: steaks. Since then, the steakhouse is a staple in every dining scene as the quintessential date night, often with a white tablecloth and a hint toward dressing up. The boom happened after World War II, as the middle class began to fully develop with economic means and craved their fancy dinners out.
So why are steakhouses an American ritual?
“It really all boils down to a simple philosophy of keep it simple and let the ingredients speak for themselves,” said Alex Lukens, the executive chef at Bowdie’s Chophouse, 2237 Wealthy St. SE in East Grand Rapids. “A good steakhouse should have the best cuts of meat, the freshest produce and it’s just about letting the actual ingredients speak for themselves.
“When you invest in such quality products, it makes cooking a lot easier and you should know it’s going to be good.”
More than just the food
Steak is a food many are intimidated by to cook at home. But it is also a food many feel like they can cook better than restaurants. So, a steakhouse can offer a paradox of sorts when it comes to dining out, especially as food costs rise and an al carte steak can easily approach, and surpass, $100.
It’s not too crazy to head to one of several nationwide steakhouse chains to grab a quick steak dinner and leave filled up with a few drinks for around $50. There is value in that.
But at the same time, there is a value in going to a, well, fancy steakhouse. Head into a restaurant like The Chophouse, and the ambiance alone can say, “This is a special dinner.’ The ingredients demand the prices, but so too do the table settings and attentive staff, which, according to Verburg are there for a reason themselves. Verburg said to be a server, you have to train as a service assistant for up to 12 months and then be approved by a group of managers and a team of five certified trainers.
“If you break down the system behind the scenes of what food service workers are looking for, they’re looking for a stable income,” Verburg said. “If you’ve got the premium ingredients, you can charge this menu price, now you’re going to be able to get the best people. If I’m one of the best servers in Grand Rapids, what am I looking for. Where can I make a higher commission and feel like my career will grow.”
Verburg said the retention of staff at The Chop House is high. He said he’d like to be there another 30 years, after starting there in 2012 as a dishwasher. The head bartender? She’s been there 16 yeras. Other servers he mentioned 17 years. Even the cleaning lady has been at the restaurant for 17 years.
“That’s part of what you’re paying for, the longevity,” Verburg said. “What you get when you go to a premium steakhouse is a lot of from-scratch ingredients, premium ingredients, and really great service that makes you want to come back.”
At the major steakhouses in town like The Chop House and Bowdie’s, there is a definite regular clientele. The staffs know that and they know the customers.
“We take notes on guests,” he said. “If you’re a long-time regular at The Chop House, we just know you. We know where your kids go to college. It feels like home, a second living room where you have waiters and chefs delivering you personal experiences.”
Down to a science
At an upscale steakhouse, each steak is meticulously inspected before its put on a menu.
Verburg said each steak coming into the building is inspected three times, first by the morning supervisor who makes through each ounce of the 700 pounds of beef cooked during the week is perfect.
Later, the chef keeps his strict inventory to ensure guests will get the food they want. Then chef weigh each steak, making sure it has the appropriate weight and trim level. At a steakhouse like The Chop House, they like to keep a variance of half an ounce, so no guest is too surprised when they order an 8-ounce filet. Some chains can have up to a two-ounce variance.
“You could get an eight-ounce filet and it’s 10 ounces one time, and the next time it’s six ounces,” he said. “Then you’re asking, ‘What the heck happened? Did you get a new chef? Are you ripping me off? Twenty-five percent of my steak is gone from the last time.”
More than just steaks
At The Chop House, there’s a Beef Wellington that’s been on the menu for years.
“We have people who drive up from Kalamazoo, even Indiana, who come for the Beef Wellington,” Verburg said.
But The Chop House also serves up some tasty seafood and incredible lamb chops.
At Bowdie’s, Lukens said the steak is the star, but there are other options.
“Not everyone likes steaks,” he said. “But oftentimes, their partner will. We have our rotating specials on seafood and that’s sort of where we try to throw in some of the trending cuisines. We like to mess around with the seafood.
“And even with the steaks themselves, there’s always a hot new steak, maybe a cut people didn’t used to do.”
And its back to basics
When it comes right down to it, steakhouses remain successful because of one thing: Americans know what they are.
“People like routine, people like consistency,” Verburg said. “The American diet has always been oriented to a large portion of beef. It’s kind of like a status symbol. People might say, ‘I reached retirement, it’s about time I go have a big steak, a nice glass of whiskey, a great bottle of wine.
“You’re in the business of people that are celebrating a great accomplishment. As people get more accomplishments, you get more business.”
Steak menu cheat sheet
Heading into a steakhouse can be intimidating, if only because of the sometimes fancy atmosphere. But even to some seasoned diners, decoding a steak menu and an array of cuts at various price points can be daunting. Let’s break some things down a little bit;
Filet Mignon
These are buttery soft cuts with extremely low fat content. It’s for pure texture and often carries subtle beef flavor, so it can pair really well with offered sauces. It can also be among the most pricey per ounce.
New York Strip
NY Strips are decently tender but come with bold beefy flavor with a medium amount of fat. It’s really a great, balanced all-around steak that can appeal to many diners.
Ribeyes
Ribeyes are a little more firm than other cuts, but carry a high amount of fat, making for generally rich and juicy steaks. Great for those seeking maximum beef flavor.
Now for some vocab
Marbling is the fat makeup within the cut of steak. The more marbling there is, the more fat there is, and therefore usually a juicier, beefier cut of meat.
Wagyu is the buzziest of buzz in the steak world. It’s prized for the intense marbling, but Wagyu from different parts of the world carry different meanings and value. The ultimate Wagyu beef, the Japanese Kobe, are raised in very strict environments and is an intense cut of beef that can cost hundreds of dollars, but melts like butter. Most wagyu found in America is a hybrid that blends the Japanese genetics with local stocks.
Dry or wet aged is how the beef is aged. Dry aged steaks are normally hung for up to 60 days in a controlled environment and loses moisture for a distinct flavor. Wet aged are done so in vacuumed sealed containers and are milder.
Pat’s Picks: Some of Grand Rapids’ standout steakhouses
The Chop House
190 Monroe Ave. NW
(616) 984-3095
Bowdie’s Chophouse
2237 Wealthy St. SE
(616) 805-5044
Gin Gin’s
345 Summer Ave. NW
(616) 341-9124
Butcher’s Union
438 Bridge St. NW
(616) 551-1323
Prime Casual Steakhouse
3874 West River Dr.
(616) 214-7738
