To understand Peruvian cuisine — and its culture — consider the potato.
Native to the Andes mountains, these hardy tubers were domesticated 5,000 to 10,000 years ago by ancient farmers, and they’ve been growing ever since. (Literally: The first domestic potatoes were pea-sized.)
Spuds are so important to Peru, the Quechua word for life — kawsay — is also used to refer to potatoes. And that’s probably the origin of the name causa, a bright yellow potato parfait that’s been a Peruvian staple since before the Inca Empire.
Now you can sample causa and a mountain of other auténtico Peruvian dishes right here in Grand Rapids thanks to RIO Peruvian and Mexican Cuisine, which opened in August on 28th Street near Division Ave.
Let’s talk some more about causa: Topped with a cheery arrangement of crispy noodles, a mayonnaise sauce, avocado and black olives, these tangy potato stacks come in chicken, shrimp, tuna and salmon. (The smart money goes with La Causa Sampler, a flight of mini-causas that includes one of each protein.)
If you like your appetizers with a cross-cultural twist, try the chaufa, a Peruvian-Chinese fried rice dish. (Chinese immigrants to Peru have brought their own techniques and ingredients to create Chifa, a cuisine that’s uniquely Peruvian.) Chaufa rice also comes entrée-size, with your choice of chicken, beef or seafood. Other Chifa dishes at RIO include Wok Sautéed Fettuccine and stir-fried filet mignon served with rice (and French fries — can’t forget the potatoes).
Remember the mains
RIO’s main courses are generous and include lots of fun extras. Out of the Peruvian entrées, we tried the Lamb Seco, a shank slow-cooked with coriander and dressed with two varieties of native pepper and garlic confit and topped with vinegary red onions. (No fear: Like the other dishes we sampled, this one’s not super-spicy.) The lamb came plated with white rice, beans and fried yuca spears.
The Pechuga de Pollo is a juicy grilled chicken breast served with a plastic ramekin chimichurri, a popular Latin American oil-and-vinegar sauce that includes parsley, oregano and garlic — muy sabroso!
Another rock star from the grill is churrasco, marinated skirt steak served with chimichurri. To get the full treatment, go for the classic Peruvian combo Chimichurri a lo Pobre. While that translates to “poor people’s chimichurri,” it comes with some extras; RIO’s plate includes plantains, rice topped with a fried egg — and a grilled hot dog. (Hot dogs are a popular treat throughout South America, and each country has its own way of zhuzhing them up.)
RIO has a full bar, including a variety of mixed drinks. If you want to try a muy Peruvian non-alcoholic treat, you (and your kids!) will likely enjoy chicha morada, a sweet, deeply colored beverage made from ckolli, a special variety of purple corn grown in the Andes. Or you might want to try an Inka Kola, a clear golden soft drink that outsells Coke in Peru.
Considering its name, it’s no surprise that RIO also offers a wealth of Mexican dishes. (Owner Andy Rosario also owns Maya Mexican Grill and Bar, so it’s safe to say this isn’t his first chimichanga!) Check out RIO’s varied list of ceviches and tacos, mains that include fajitas and a whole red snapper, and a full complement of Mexican beers.
And while we didn’t leave room for dessert, we’ll be back to try RIO’s postres: a pudding made with guanábana fruit, a mousse featuring the mellow richness of another fruit called lucuma, as well as favorites like flan and rice pudding.
As the Quechua toast goes, Kawsaypac! (To life … Or to potatoes!)
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