Buon Appetito!

Escape to Sicily without leaving Grand Rapids
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Calamari Fritti with a side of marinara and a lemon. Photo by Amanda Kamppinen.

It was my birthday, and I had big plans to celebrate with a mix of close friends and family. The venue? A new-to-me spot in town—Testa Rossa Ristorante. The kind of place that seemed to have it all: delicious food, live music, and an atmosphere that struck the perfect balance between casual and special. I’d heard rave reviews from Michael Kulczyk, the owner of Cherie Inn. If you’re not familiar, it’s a 100-year-old Grand Rapids icon at the intersection of Cherry Street and Lake Ave. known for its outstanding brunch. So, when he mentioned that Testa Rossa was his new favorite go-to, I checked out the menu. I’m generally not a huge fan of typical American-Italian food, but Testa Rossa specializes in Sicilian cuisine. That’s different.

“If you haven’t been to Sicily, you haven’t been to Italy,” is a phrase attributed to Goethe. I’ll take it a step further and say, ‘if you haven’t eaten Sicilian food, you haven’t fully enjoyed Italian cuisine.’ The Sicilians are known for incorporating ingredients from other cultures, resulting in more flavorful dishes than mainland Italy. As an island at the tip of the “boot,” Sicily lies in the middle of Mediterranean trade routes, so naturally its people had access to spices and produce that would be more difficult to procure in the country’s interior.

Clockwise from top left: Vodka Rigatoni Buratta, Chicken Radiatore, Calamari Fritti, and Baked Meatballs. Photo by Amanda Kamppinen.

After studying the menu, along with Michael’s endorsement, I was ready to take the plunge and make a reservation for a table of eight.

We arrived at a bustling scene in the Wealthy Street neighborhood—Testa Rossa was alive with energy. The welcoming scent of pizza filled the air, mingling with the sounds of a live band playing in the background. The restaurant’s interior had and inviting vibe with three distinct seating areas. There was a cozy bar in the back where you could sip a drink while waiting for rest of your party to arrive, the main room with the entertainers was quite swanky, and the front area had a casual, family-friendly feel, the type of space that caters to all ages. Our table was ready, and that’s where we were sat. Unfortunately, I couldn’t see the band but could hear them. The atmosphere here was electric.

Photo by Amanda Kamppinen.

The food came fast, and from the first bite, it was clear that Testa Rossa wasn’t just another Italian spot. The calamari fritti was out of this world. Tender, lightly fried squid, paired with a spicy marinara and saffron aioli that made you want to lick the plate clean. I also ordered the meatballs, which were soft, juicy, and nestled in a bed of rich marinara, topped with a generous swirl of lemon ricotta and chive oil. I had to resist the urge to order more—these were just that good.

But the real star was the lobster ravioli. Each delicate, buttery bite was like a bite of heaven, with the sweetness of the lobster perfectly complementing the creamy sauce. The dish was simply divine. We also got a couple of wood-fired pizzas to share—the Testa Rossa pizza, with its pepperoni, salami, capicola, and chili flakes, was fantastic. And the Limoncello pizza had a surprising twist with a creamy limoncello sauce, ricotta, and toasted pistachios. I didn’t expect to love it as much as I did, but it was absolutely delicious.

Guests can enjoy a limoncello spritzer or martini, made with house-made limoncello from an authentic family recipe passed down from manager Jolana Manino’s Sicilian grandmother— a perfect complement to the authentic cuisine. Photo by Amanda Kamppinen.

Throughout the meal, we kept sipping on the signature cocktails. The limoncello martini was the perfect refreshing drink to pair with the food. (I later found out the limoncello recipe came from manager Jolana Manino’s grandmother, as do some of the restaurant’s other signature dishes.) We spent hours eating, drinking, and laughing. The service was impeccable, which, having worked in the industry myself, I truly appreciated. Even with a full restaurant and a table of eight, we never felt rushed, and every dish arrived just the right temperature, perfectly plated.

For dessert, I indulged in the affogato, and it was just the right way to end the night—a scoop of creamy gelato, doused in espresso, with a rich chocolate drizzle that had us all fighting for the last bite. We were already talking about our next visit before we even left.

On my second visit I upped the ante and ordered the Sicilian pot roast, along with some vodka rigatoni. I also ordered the calamari fritti(again) and indulged in a little more of the dessert. The olive oil cake was authentic, delicious and the tiramisu, to die for. As the fourth (and best) restaurant from Cory DeMint, I was expecting it to be good, but this was a great big city meal I wasn’t expecting. I feel lucky to have found such a gem.

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