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All-night Coffee
At
the area’s all-night coffeehouses,
you find students, teachers, card-players,
philosophers, insomniacs and the hung-over … and
it’s first names only.
By
Rachel Hawes
Photography by Jeff Hage/Green Frog
Photo
2:07
a.m.
The Bitter End
It’s a dark and stormy night at The Bitter End. The cold bites and the
warm glow of a yellow sign beckons through the wooden door — like the blinking
traffic light outside. The hypnotizing smell of coffee beans greets the nostrils.
The anxious barista looks shy as he prepares a French
Kiss — white Ghirardelli chocolate and
French vanilla latte, not the Parisian affection.
Mmm … that first sip slides easily down
the throat. Muted colors coat the homey West
Fulton shop, and paintings drape the walls. The
hour is late, yet innocuous table lights reveal
a dozen quiet customers, some
busy at their laptops, others deep in chat.
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2:14 a.m.
Three college-age friends whisper together. Nick,
the most talkative and only male of the group,
compares his workplace to this local hangout. “Non-franchise
coffeehouses have more of a comfortable atmosphere — they
have personality and look so distinct,” says
Nick, who is a tutor at GRCC and (gasp) employee
of the mega-chain Starbucks.
2:23 a.m.
The rhythmic traffic light illuminates the concentrated
look on the face of Norverto, a diligent Hispanic
student at GRCC. He stares intently at his laptop
and types, then looks up briefly, so as not to
be kept too long from his studies. “It’s
open 24 hours. It’s so convenient,” he
says. “I usually write papers. Plus, their
coffee’s pretty good.”
2:38 a.m.
Next to the delectable showcase of muffins, bagels
and pastries sit Kalena and Felix. Kalena is
a Wyoming home-school teacher for The Grand Rapids
Association for Christian Education and Excellence.
Felix, whose fedora hat tilts mischievously over
one eye, is a local lyricist and dance instructor. “I’m
just grading papers,” says Kalena, as if
middle-of-the-night grading is not unusual. Felix
bobs his head to the beat pounding through his
headphones. Kalena points to him bashfully and
says, “We just met.” 2:46 a.m.
Joe, a young Jehovah’s Witness and dancer,
sits at a round table, papers strewn about, reading
his Bible. He lives above The Bitter End. He’s
a regular but admits, “I’m not a
big coffee drinker. I come at night because I’m
not tired enough to go to sleep.”
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Above: Kalena
and Felix
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2:57 a.m.
Noshville Coffee Café
Still dark, still stormy and the cold still bites
at Noshville Coffee Café, Bitter End’s
sister shop, on 44th Street in Wyoming. A handful
of college-age studiers sip their coffees while
struggling to finish procrastinated papers. The
busy-bee barista brushes her hair out of her
face as she refills coffee pots and wipes up
spills, trying to stay awake. A couple puts off
their studying by browsing Facebook and flirting
shamelessly — with their eyes, of course.
3:09 a.m.
Nancy, a mother of three and Noshville employee
for eight years, seems the life of the party — or
at least the one inside this coffeehouse. She
sits at a table conversing and laughing with
almost everyone in the café.
Occasionally, she brings her kids along. “My
16-year-old likes it. It’s an acceptable
environment,” Nancy says. “She’s
not out doing drugs.”
Nancy describes the different types of customers
who come in: “There’s the shirt-and-tie
crew, the card and Scrabble players, and the
people-meeting-people group.”
3:13 a.m.
On the sidewalk outside Noshville, camaraderie
emanates from a collection of regulars — ages
14 to 50 — that has been gathering here
since May.
“We’re like a family — a big
dysfunctional family,” says ringleader
Joe, a 20-something who says he’s writing
a book. “We
got career men, college students, writers, artists,
musicians and social workers who come here.
“There are also a fair share of people
who should be in Pine Rest.”
Joe sums up what he believes the group is thinking: “This
is a place to escape from the everyday troubles
of life.” In response, he gets a few groans
and “Oh, that’s such a stereotypical
thing to say.”
Conversation bounces back and forth like the
final points of a tense tennis match.
“We’re a microcosm society,” says
one guy, smoking thoughtfully.
“We got atheists and Christians, and we
even have some virgins — four or five maybe,” says
Joe.
“I’m a virgin,” says a quiet
young man who looks like he’s still in
high school.
“Alright!” says Joe, high-fiving
him.
3:18
a.m.
76 Coffeehouse
Across town at the indie and slightly shabby-looking
76 Coffeehouse on Wealthy Street in Eastown (which
many still know as Morningstar), three women share
a couch on an elevated platform. Jessica, a nurse,
smiles and rolls her eyes at her more-than-tipsy
friends.
“We’re kind of drunk right now,” says
Kara, a tobacco store worker.
“I’m here after the bar,” says the third
friend, also named Jessica. “It’s something
you do to sober up — smoke a cigarette and
drink some coffee.”
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Above: Jessica,
Kara and Jessica
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3:27 a.m.
Down the steps and a few tables over, beneath
the posters of an eclectic mix of bands, a
couple of
guys play Texas Hold ’Em. “I come here
quite a bit,” says Mike, a college student,
as he shuffles the cards and eyes his friend, a
jittery-looking fellow who goes by “Mr. Coffee
Shop Guy.”
3:36 a.m.
A billow of smoke encompasses two regulars, Bo
and Kristen, as they sit and smile next to the
café’s computer.
Kristen, clad in a camouflage jacket, taps her
ashtray, slyly looks at her companion and says, “This
is an island of misfit toys. We’re all outcasts.”
Bo agrees with a hearty laugh, leans back in
his creaky chair and strokes his chin. “Everyone
here,” he says, “is truly in search
for something other in their lives.”
Diversity oozes from the pores of this safe-haven
coffeehouse populated by every race, gender, age
and socioeconomic strata — all those with
a craving, whether it’s for coffee or something
less material. Including those a few cents short:
“If you’re known around here, you could wash
down the tables for a cup of coffee,” says
Kristen. “When you’re a regular around
here, it’s like a family and everyone has
your back.”
Then she leans forward to reveal one of the
family’s
insider codes: “There are two Eastown rules — girls
never walk to their car alone … and they
never light their own cigarette.” GR |